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Hi, I've purchased a used home last week that has adt installed, and currently inactive. We don't know the master code/installer code. I've read the well written sticky for the safewatch pro 3000. My goal is to turn off the door alarm when any door opens, because we can hear it upstairs and it wakes one of us up in the morning, since we have different schedules, it's a bit agitating. Thanks to this forum, I have the manuals. I attempted to find the installer code, but since I couldn't find the ac plug for the system, I only disconnected the battery from the main unit and waited a minute, and then pressed.
and # at the same time, within 50 secs. Immediately, a very loud alarm came on that said 'alarm police emergency'. Now, it has 'alarm 99 police emergency' imputed on the keypad, along with other codes that were previously there.
All we want to do is get into the system to turn off the alert for the upstairs when a door downstairs opens. I've opened up be keypad and ive noticed green black red white (from left to right) wires. Can I just disconnect those wires in the keypad and will that stop the upstairs alerts? At this point I have a headache from the alarm. Please help, thanks. Thanks for this info.
So disconnecting the wire at terminal #1 is essentially like unplugging the ac plug that I couldn't find? Just to be clear before I start, because I really don't want to mess this up. 1) disconnect wire at terminal 1, and then battery. 2) reconnect wire at terminal 1.
3) press # and. at the same time at the keypad to go into program mode, at any keypad?? I am confused after this point. If I use the keypad near the garage door, and that zone is 2, do I press # and 2?
Is zone 2 the location number, if I'm using the keypad next to the garage door?retrieve installer code. 4) then hit. 99 to exit programming mode. 5) reconnect battery Are these steps correct? Thanks again.
Just keep in mind that if you aren't going to locate the transformer first, then you have to re-connect Terminal 1 and reach the keypad within 50 seconds. That's why you don't bother to reconnect the battery yet: You're racing the clock, unless the keypad is right next to your panel. Any keypad will work.
You can even change keypads during the process: Go into program mode with the nearest keypad and then use another keypad if its display is better. There is no relationship between zones and keypads. Zones refer to points of protection: Doors, windows, motion sensors, etc-the panel doesn't know or care where the keypads are located relative to zones. Just to piggyback on what PJMax said about locating the transformer: There are only so many places the transformer can be. It's plugged into an electrical outlet somewhere, and you should find out where all your outlets are, anyway.
The transformer is usually near the control, but sometimes in an odd place because the installer had to use what he could find available. I've had service calls where it took me over an hour to find the transformer. On one occasion it was 5 feet from the control panel but a cabinet had been added to the wall after the alarm system was installed-which, of course, isn't obvious to a Service Tech fifteen years later. I had to move supplies from the cabinets before I could find the outlet-mind you, I didn't know the outlet was there until I found it, I just knew it had to be somewhere and I had searched the entire house first and was reduced to accounting for every foot of wall space where an outlet might be. In another instance, the transformer was plugged into an outlet in the attic. That might seem crazy, but the installer used the nearest outlet in a house being built, and the attic outlet was the easiest to use for a person who already has a stepladder set up where he's working and the ceiling hasn't been laid down yet.
Most installers (in my experience) don't give any thought to what a Service Tech has to live with down the road. If they did, they'd make a note inside the control box about where the transformer is located-even if it's 5 feet away and obvious at the time of installation. Other odd places where one may not think about the outlet being there: Behind the water heater or furnace/AC unit. There's nearly always a wired-in blocky 24-28VAC wired in for the thermostat control, but the transformer you're looking for is a plug-in transformer and often there's an outlet near the 'stat transformer. I've seen outlets mounted on ceilings in unfinished basements that were later fitted with drop ceilings. It might help you locate the outlet if you switch circuit breakers off until your keypad displays 'No AC'. It could at least indicate the general area of the outlet, although not necessarily.
One of my fun searches was in a house where the relevant AC circuit was labeled '3rd Floor Hall Bath'. It turned out that the AC line went up from the basement (where the control panel was installed), through a GSI outlet next to the 3rd floor bathroom sink, then back down to the basement into a closet 30 feet from the control.
So keep in mind that your AC lines may be run however it was convenient for the contractor's electrician to do it. And don't rule out closets, attics, utility areas, or inside cabinets for outlet locations. Thank you for this info. Honestly, I've never dealt with alarm systems, so this is all new to me. I tried looking for the transformer but it's been less than a week in this house and at this time I just want to get the code so I can get into altering the function of the system.
I'm more of a car/mechanical guy as opposed to electrical/alarm, so thanks for all your patience and help. It's greatly appreciated. I'm confused regarding the following point. Per the sticky regarding this alarm system 'within 50 seconds press. and # at the same time Will go into program mode programming section number that shows on the display willbethelocation for theinstallercode ( On most panels this will be 20)(????). Key in # and location number (????) and the panel will read back the installer code one digit at a time.'
If you or anyone can explain what I have in question marks I would greatly appreciate it. Robb, I sincerely hope your panel is programmed to power up disarmed. There is a programming option (which I personally don't use for exactly this reason) to power up in previous state, and if your panel is set to do that, then it will power up armed, the way it was when you power it down. You cannot get into programming while the system is armed. So hope yours doesn't power up armed.
Now to your question: Nobody on here knows the Installer Code to your system for sure. There is a common IC that ADT has been using for a long time, but moderators discourage posting any commonly used codes on a public forum, for good reason. The procedure for reading your Installer Code is: (1) Power down your panel, as you have done.
(2) Power up the AC (Plug in the transformer, and don't worry about the battery for now. (3) Within 50 seconds, get to the closest keypad and push. and # simultaneously and hold them in until the keypad displays a '20' on it somewhere (different keypads will display things, depending on whether it's an Alphanumeric, but the number 20 will be prominent). If your panel is programmed to power up in previous state, this may not work. (By design, it shouldn't work).
If you have any points faulted (doors open, movement in front of motion sensors), it may go into immediate alarm. If it powers up armed and doesn't let you into programming, post back and let us know. (4) If you get into programming, the '20' is the programming field. Press #20 and the display will scroll through the Installer Code's four digits: If your code is 1-2-3-4, then you'll see 01-02-03-04 scroll. Exit programming by pressing.99. PAY ATTENTION when you do: Use ONLY.99 to exit programming. Don't be careless about it.
Now enter 'installer code + 8 + 02 + new master code. (BTW-don't be cute and try to make the Installer Code and the Master Code the same: The panel won't allow it and it leaves you with your old lost code.) DO NOT test your new master code by quick-arming or arming with a keyfob, or arming with ANYTHING other than your new master code. Until you're sure your code works, don't arm the system.
The safest way to test is to see if your new master code turns on/off Chime mode: CODE + 9. If it does that, it will disarm the system, so feel safe to arm with master code now. Another caveat: Some users discover they can arm and disarm with the Installer Code. Please don't do that. The Installer Code will disarm your panel ONLY if it was used to arm it.
Using it as a User Code can leave you locked out of your system if you don't have a real User Code to disarm the panel.